As I walk into Psar O'Russei and up the first flight of stairs, I decide to pause for a moment, and really take in the space around me. After a few minutes I conclude that this market is akin to a massive warehouse, with the contents of a thousand attics, scattered over an indefinable number of floors. Some levels genuinely do look as though they are suspended mid-air. In this video-game architectural space lurk the most curious items for sale... things that really can leave you wide-eyed and momentarily speechless...
I march past the stationary department. The posters of pop-stars you never knew had a fan-base, wrapping paper, pens, dictionaries... straight on past the jewellery stalls dotted along my path, teasing me. The metal of the earrings chime in the breeze, whispering to me, calling me over to have a closer look. I do not deter my gaze. I have a particular task at hand. Shoes.
On what I guess can be called the second floor, in a far corner- is where they reside. At first it all looks a bit harmless, shoes hanging on makeshift walls in little stalls, shoes in rows on the floor... Then, on closer inspection, the reality of the situation kicks in... Psar O'Russei is the big kahuna of all kahunas when it comes to shoes.
This place could bring Imelda Marcos to her knees. With tears streaming down her cheeks. I felt palpitations as I registered all the pairs surrounding me. I felt like those children at the counter in old-fashioned sweet shops, open-mouthed as they stare at all the jars on the shelves. And at this moment in time let me point out that I have always described my relationship with fashion as healthy.
Shoes in every colour and style: red, white, pink, blue, neon green... shoes with bows, stripes, dots, buckles, sequence, buttons, pom-poms, lace, tartan... leopard-prints, floral-prints... Shoes to make you look like Minnie Mouse, Marylyn Monroe, Jessica Rabbit, Little Bo Peep... Shoes to collect the kids from school in. Shoes to dance in. Shoes to go to the beach in. Shoes so bright they look like they need batteries. Shoes so pointy you can kill cockroaches in the corner of the room with them on. Flats, kitten-heels, killer-heels, flip-flops, ballet pumps... Shoes so cute you wish the year had more days...
In this kaleidoscope of footwear the word 'Chanel' caught my eye and, on closer inspection, the quality had me optimistic until the 'made in Italy' words were added to the experience. False alarm. None of the brands are particularly familiar but that just adds to the fun of it all. Spending time in the shoe section of this market is a bit like fishing- you have to be patient. There is no point in rushing. Slowly navigate your way around the stalls and enjoy the eye candy. The sellers, when awake, do not so much move from their spot. They have long bamboo sticks with hooks at the end with which they pass you the goods for a fitting while they remain rooted in the middle of it all.
The biggest size I found was a European 40 and that was at stall number 02 078. There also seemed to be an arrival of 'ZARA' silver flip-flops in large sizes to be found at a number of different stalls. Prices are very reasonable, and depending on your mood and bargaining skills- can be even more reasonable.
I'm still marvelling at all the possible designs there are for shoes. There were moments when I felt like I was left alone in the costume department for a film. A very wonderful film.
Psar O'Russei, Street 182
2 Blocks East of Monivong
Google Earth Placemark