Vietnamese pilgrims who come to Yen Tu Mountain, 120km north-east of Ha Noi, have a saying: "Although you may practise Buddhism for 100 years, you cannot attain enlightenment without reaching the summit of Yen Tu."
Their destination is Dong Pagoda on the summit of Yen Tu Mountain in coastal Quang Ninh Province. And as they say, getting there is half the fun.
Renting a motorbike and hitting the highway is a great way to go, although buses are an easy option. But on a motorbike, with the wind in your hair, it's a fun way to travel through the countryside, and this way you're free to travel at your own pace.
There are plenty of motorbike rental shops in Ha Noi's Old Quarter, and once you've put on some sturdy shoes and packed a hat, some sun screen, insect repellent and lots of water, it's time to get on your bike.
While the mountain is only 120km away, it's best to give yourself two to three hours to get there. The roads on the way are in good condition, but it's best to safely cruise at about 50km/h.
To reach Yen Tu, head for the city of Ha Long. After an hour and a half travelling on Highway 18 through green rice fields, I made a pit-stop at a roadside shop in Hai Duong Province and bought some green bean cakes, a local specialty. The small cakes are made from crushed green bean powder and melt in your mouth.
Back on the road, I drove along the highway until it started getting hilly, and I knew I must be getting close to Yen Tu.
The highest mountain in the surrounding Dong Trieu mountain range, Yen Tu is the scenic birthplace of the Truc Lam School of Buddhism, also known as the Bamboo Forest School.
The mountain and its series of pagodas and historical sites draw hundreds of thousands of visitors each year, mostly Vietnamese. Yen Tu has long been considered sacred, but its fame spread in the 13th century, when King Tran Nhan Tong founded the Truc Lam sect here. It was one of the first national Vietnamese offshoots of the legendary Zen school of Buddhism.
Most visitors begin their trek at Giai Oan brook, situated at the foot of the mountain. Legend has it that King Tran Nhan Tong, after abdicating the throne in favour of his son, stopped here on his journey up the mountain.
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June 18, 2008
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