Bukchon (Northern Village) is an area north of Cheonggyecheon (stream) and Jongno Street. Bukchon is one of the few neighborhoods where the Seoul of old is preserved.

Instead of high-rise apartments and concrete sameness, one finds narrow streets lined with small quaint houses topped by traditional Korean tiles. It is an area popular with Sunday strollers and historic architecture buffs.

Luckily for tourists, Bukchon sports several traditional Korean houses (Hanok) that have been converted into guesthouses for tourists. They are cute and cozy and afford easy access to Seoul's historic downtown area and subway stations. And what's more, they don't break the bank.

Anguk Guesthouse is a charming little Hanok accommodation facility located in a small alleyway. Take exit 1 from Anguk subway station and turn immediately right. About 100 meters up, take the first right. Turn left when you see Yeonil House to your right, and follow the green brick path. Turn right at the first corner where the all-wooden building is and it's the second door on your left.

There are a total of five rooms, including single, double and twin rooms. Each has its own private bathroom, and the beds here are western style (a mattress raised off the ground), which is different from the traditional Korean style of sleeping on a padded mat on the floor. The more expensive rooms have their own computer for Internet. Payment is in cash only, and the total bill must be settled on the first day of your stay. English is spoken here. For photos and contact details, check the website: anguk-house.com

Then there is the Bukchon Guesthouse, also located close to Anguk station. Like the other Hanok, it gives you a chance to experience the comfort of a house that has yellow earthen wall and ondol, the traditional underfloor heating system used in Korea. Check in time is 13:00 and check out is two hours earlier. A single room is 35,000 won and a double 60,000. The house has Internet, refrigerator, hot water and washing machine in the communal living room, all free of charge.

From the lodge, many noted touring places, such as Myeongdong, Dongdaemun and Namdaemun markets are within 30 minutes walk, and an abundance of galleries are even nearer. If you call 743-8530, the staff will pick you up at Anguk station exit 3. For more please go to the website: www.bukchon72.com

Seoul Guesthouse, has as its proud mascot the sapsali dog named Ssari. On the garden gate (yes, in Seoul!) a sign reads "beware of the dog" in Korean. But fear not because Ssari, the size of a small bear, is very docile, gentle and friendly. The sapsal is a shaggy-haired Korean breed of dog. Traditionally, these dogs were believed to dispel ghosts and evil spirits. The species has been extinct for several decades, the owner explains, but has had a new lease on life since a Korean science university succeeded in re-breeding it. Ssari often joins in the tourists for a morning jog around the Bukchon area.

Room prices are 35,000 won for a single and 50,000 for a double. A special self-contained annex guesthouse with three rooms and raised up on a hill with a nice view is 200,000 won. This room is equipped with high-speed Internet, cable TV, a fridge, toilet and shower and has a nice view of nearby Inwang and Bugak mountains. To make a reservation please go to the website, www.seoul110.com

Every guesthouse in Bukchon, including the ones covered above, has either private or shared bathrooms, but if you want a nice long soak or a sauna-style steam, go to the old style bathhouse called Jungangtang in the neighborhood. It is little changed since the 1970s. There are separate men and women's facilities, and you can stay as long as you like.

A short distance from Bukchon lies the Inn Daewon, possibly the oldest low-cost guesthouse catering to foreign visitors, having been run by the same family for over 35 years. The current owner studied in Japan, so many guests are from there, but all are welcome. There are two locations. The newer Inn Daewon is right by Gyeongbokgung subway station (take exit six, double back, turn left at the first alley and it is about 20 meters up on your right).

This building was renovated in 2005. Each room has air conditioning and a television. Sleeping mats are on the floor, and there is a communal kitchenette for self-serve breakfast (instant coffee, toast and ramyeon are always in stock). There are two computers available for Internet access. Bathrooms are shared, with separate male and female toilet facilities. The new Inn Daewon has 13 rooms, 2 of them big enough to sleep a whole family. Guided tours can also be organized to the famous shopping markets Namdaemun and Dongdaemun as well as old palaces of Seoul. Prices vary between 25,000 won and 60,000 per night. Credit cards are accepted and reservations can be made via this website: www.visitseoul.com Some limited English is spoken.

The older Inn Daewon, in an alleyway near Gwanghwamun subway station exit 1 in downtown Seoul, is more low budget and not as flashy – but it oozes with character, and you can meet new friends to drink with in the courtyard garden when the weather is good. The neighborhood around it is slated for re-development, so there is no telling how long this icon of budget travel will last. Some rooms are single, and there are a couple of dorm-style bunk rooms too.

This article first appeared on www.korea.net

May 13, 2008