Laura McKay reveals that Kep is more than a crab-eating launch pad to Rabbit Island.
Famous for its seafood, pepper, countryside and garden of islands, Kep has continually proven itself to be a popular tourist destination for everyone from King Sihanouk to the average city dweller looking to bathe on the beach. For those staying more than one night, Kep has a lot more to offer than a trip to Rabbit Island and a place to get your seafood on.
Unless you have your own wheels, sooner or later you will find yourself travelling Cambodia style. The tuk-tuk and motodop drivers of Kep are the original storytellers. If you're lucky enough to meet a driver who is Kep bornand- bred, you're almost guaranteed a fascinating tale from someone whose life has witnessed Kep play host to Khmer royalty in the 1960s, Khmer Rouge fighters in the 1970s and, more recently, high-end tourism developers who are rebuilding Kep as a must-visit destination. Drivers also offer trips to Kampot, caves and the pepper farms where you can literally buy bags of the glorious hot stuff.
For those wanting to keep it local, Kep by foot or on a rented bicycle or motorbike is the best way to explore.
The Mountain Trail can be accessed from Verandah Guest House and involves a 2-3 hour wander through lush greenery with views of Kep that would make a bird jealous.
King Sihanouk's now crumbling palace can also be found along the palm fringed, ocean-edged main road. The dollar fee to take snaps is well spent as you explore the derelict shadow of former grandeur. The view from the strangely immaculate palace garden to Rabbit Island (Koh Toonsai) is truly fit for a King.
In the other direction, a short ride along the esplanade reveals Kep's notorious crab market, which invites you to indulge in a veritable crustacean feeding frenzy.
Post-crab, a nearby massage parlour offering a decent steam and massage can be found at Linda Massage.
Nothing is better than ending each day of exploration by watching the sunset over Bokor Mountain with a cocktail or three at the stunning Sailing Club. The Sailing Club guarantees to show visitors, who rent their sailboats by the hour or for a whole day, a unique side of Kep. But for those wanting to work for their sunset, the view from Sunset Rock (T'mor T'nai Leck) following a hike can't be beaten.
Land in Kep is being sold like crabs at the market, and soon this gentle town may once again become a destination for the rich and well-known. If you're neither of these, now is the time to experience the area's wild beauty in as many ways as you can.
More information on all things Kep can be found in The Kep Revival, a free guide available at most bars and guest houses.